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~ 336 m.a.s.l.

Ferrata di Badde Pentumas - C/D

4.5 | 16

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Elevation: 150m
Parking: 40.2563°, 9.487°
Ferrata: 40.249°, 9.4767°
2h
time
50min
approach
40min
exit
500m
length

Description

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Characteristics

It is a truly spectacular via ferrata, with no sea view, much in the style of the Alpine originals.

It is located in a huge natural amphitheater near the caves of Sa Oche on the right bank of the Badde Pentumas canyon, near the beautiful Lanaitho Valley (Oliena). For this reason, but also because of the vastness of the environment surrounding this ravine, the whole ferrata is very wild, romantic and exciting.

The entire ferrata is well secured, but the vertical section, without cramps, requires great strength and good technique or good athletic movement or training in mountaineering. The most exposed and exciting parts have cramps and has more than 100 meters of elevation.

The first cornice is rising to the right. With cramps you overcome the 4m rock. Then the easier parts switch with the rock passages (always secured). Small green sign showing the way. As soon as the trail drops to the left, the path goes to the right: the green sign points to the right to the rock ledge called "K 13". Here you can reach Duavidda in 90 minutes. But you want to go left. Now the real rock ledge ferrata di Pentumas is reached. The first 60 meters are easy, but the next 18meters are very difficult but always perfectly secured. Below you have about 150m of air! Another 50meters are again easier. Then you will be in front of the ferrata key point. 15 meters high vertical rock section without artificial steps. It is secured by a chain and temporary back-ups are available every 2-3 meters. Having overcome this exhausting obstacle is a short transition and after the next short rock step you will reached the end with a fantastic panorama.

Arrival

From Nuoro to SP 22 to Oliena, then to SP 46 in the direction of Dorgali to the junction at Su Cologne. After the pub of the same name, turn right to the cobbled road and then to the gravel road to Valle di Lanattui. You get to the intersection (directly to Tiscali), turn right and follow the directions "Sa Sedda e Sos Carros". After 3.3km you reach Rifugio di Sa Oche where you can park your car.

Approach

From the parking lot at Grott Sa Oche (Oliena) it takes about 45 minutes to walk first through the forest and then through the gravel bed.

After 5 minutes you will reach the beginning of the Pentumas Gorge where you will find a stream on which you will soon find a 5 m high rock, which is secured by unsecured light climbing (UIAA 2, barkers are available). Then you go to the gorge for about half an hour, cross the first amphitheater to the left and then reach the second larger amphitheater (about 45 minutes from the car park). To get to the onset of the ferrata directly above the heads, you have the difficulty of climbing the boulder field along the tree trunk that has been left here and positioned to make it easier to overcome the rock passage.

Exit

Get to the driveway and return to the car. Warning: Since there is currently no descending road signage, it may be better to continue on your way until the next warning.

Interesting facts

- Follow the green marker.

- Be careful when it's wet.


16 climbed
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