Characteristics

High in the wild canyon above the start, a ladder blinks in the morning sun. Steel cables and iron bars help you to overcome the steep rock. After climbing up a vertical corner (rockfall hazard, waterfall and very strenuous) comes the entrance of an almost 100 metre shaft (2575 m), offering a very special experience of light and shadow. There are two route options to choose from: an easier (but usually wetter) one, which is quite difficult, but has two suspension bridges and the second overhanging and spectacular detour into the "Underworld" which is followed by an extremely exhausting climb, except for a short horizontal band. After this, the steepness decreases slightly; at the old bivouac site (a grotto ca. 2720 m), the "Ferratisti" may then (possibly with a slightly shaky hand) register in the route book. For the intrepid traveller, there is now an absolute blast: the "Via Konst" - short, crisp and very airy. It leads through a cave into the slightly overhanging wall, from which - with a few hundred meters of air under your butt - you climb over iron rungs into "safer" terrain - wow! The normal route runs from the bivouac place first over scree, then along the rocky ridge to the summit rocks of the Daubenhorn. After a longer traverse comes the last ladder: 30 meters high, slightly overhanging, which brings you out onto the ridge and shortly to the summit of the Daubenhorn (2941 m, 5¾ hrs.).

Arrival

Bern - Martigny - Leukerbad - Park at the Gemmibahn cable car and take cable car up.

Approach

From the upper cable car station (2346 m) head down to Gemmipass, then turn left (SE) following the old path down to the Lower Schmitte (a grassy terrace), where a large information board stands (about 2060 m, 20 min).

Descent

Turn left on the white/blue/white marked path. Shortly down to the crevasse-free Daubenhorn glacier, which you cross to the northwest. Along a clearly defined, white-blue-white marked track over screes downhill to Lämmerenboden, then turn right back to the Gemmi Pass (2346 m, 8 hours).

Points of interest

- One of the longest ferrata ever

(Multiple authors)

278 climbed

5.0

- wants to climb

Closest via ferratas

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Surroundings